Beneath the big blue: Maldives diving

Maldives channels are no strangers to sea life. We’d even go so far as to use the term abundant. Their geography makes Maldives diving diverse and interesting – think caverns, crevices and caves, and the corals certainly add a nice touch. Nutrient-rich seas, feeding and cleaning stations, perhaps the odd shark or two. What’s not to like?

The currents – essential to the channel’s success – can be treacherous for novices a little too fresh in their flippers. Though, this is the Maldives – so naturally, there’s a channel for them too. Jumping Jack at Faafu is a beginner’s paradise. Mild currents, coral gardens and submerged islands are ripe for scuba diving.

Experts, don’t dismiss Faafu atoll. As well as resident eagle rays, morays and frogfish, there’s a couple of tasty wrecks to treat yourselves to.

For something a little more daring, drop by Laamu. Fushi Kandu is known for its sharks. But it’s the dive across the channel that’ll wow you. The dolphins usually playing just inside the atoll are an added bonus.

You’ll find no shortage of purposely scuttled wrecks in the Maldives. But none can match the eerie wonder of a true wreck. In 1879, this SS Sea Gull was making her way to Calcutta when Gaafaru got in the way.

Ran aground, the steam ship has remained ever since. Her anchor’s visible at low tide, beckoning you in to search for more wreckage. Over the decades, the 1012-ton steamship split in two and now lies in bits, coral encrusted, on the seabed. The nearby cave is a nurse shark hangout – but you’ll need to descend to 30m to explore it. Grouper, eels and stingrays – along with barracudas will be your companions.

Location: North Malé Atoll, Gaafaru, 200m North.

Rarely will you get the chance to swim through not one, but two torpedo blasts. The British Loyalty is quite accommodating in that regard.

Torpedoed twice in WWII, it was eventually the British that scuppered her in 1946. Leading everyone to question the ship’s name, if nothing else. Controversial, as this did cause the oil tanker to, unsurprisingly, leak oil into the waters for years.

She’s now redeeming herself slightly.

The biggest wreck in the Maldives at 140 metres, British Loyalty is now bedecked in both soft and hard corals. Turtles have set up camp here – along with angelfish, wrasse, trevally and parrotfish.

Location: Addu Atoll, South east of Hithadhoo.

Wondering how to finance a week’s scuba diving in the Maldives? The Persia Merchant could be your salvation. On route to Bengal in 1658, she sank just off Maamakunudhoo.

Lives were lost, as was her precious cargo. 50 souls made it ashore, but rumour has it chests of silver and gold are still unaccounted for.

Maamakunudhoo has a bit of a ‘watery graveyard’ reputation, spelling disaster for the George Reid (1872) and the Hayston (1891), among others. Like all the best treasures, the exact location is unknown. But digging for details in the area’s inhabited islands is all part of the treasure seeking charm.

Location: Maamakunudhoo Atoll. South west of Haa Alif Atoll.

Atlantis is costlier at approximately IDR 2,150,000 for the beginner course, but they do offer more dives. Their PADI Open Water course is around IDR 7,800,000, but again offers more dives over longer periods. They also offer diving trips for more experienced divers.

Historical and rich in detail – it’s one of the few tomes to really document the Maldives history.

The other gift from The Corbin’s tragic end? Silver coinage on the seabed. François failed to note the exact amount, but Maldivian lore suggests it runs to the thousands.

Location: Goidhoo Island. House Reef.

Atlantis is costlier at approximately IDR 2,150,000 for the beginner course, but they do offer more dives. Their PADI Open Water course is around IDR 7,800,000, but again offers more dives over longer periods. They also offer diving trips for more experienced divers.

When you do get here, expect snappers and jackfish to be frolicking in the soft corals and shoals of fish to be lurking under impressive overhangs. Visibility is always dependent on recent weather – but you’re more likely to have your sight blocked here by hundreds of yellow snappers than cloudy waters.

Location: Dhigurah Channel. Alif Dhaal Atoll.

Aside from the shipwreck, there is also a wall called the Drop Off, which is ideal for a second dive of the day. Those looking for more coral action can head north to Kubu village, where there are dive sites suitable for beginners; it’s also the home of several pygmy seahorses. The area has a lot of black, volcanic sand too, which contrasts amazingly with the vibrant colours of the local wildlife.

A dedicated Marine Reserve, it’s earned a place among the best atolls in the Maldives for diving. Those in the know drop by at night, when the action hots up to levels best described as intense. Watch the currents though. A few knots make all the difference.

Location: 5 miles North West of Ukulhas. Alif Alif Atoll.

Aside from the shipwreck, there is also a wall called the Drop Off, which is ideal for a second dive of the day. Those looking for more coral action can head north to Kubu village, where there are dive sites suitable for beginners; it’s also the home of several pygmy seahorses. The area has a lot of black, volcanic sand too, which contrasts amazingly with the vibrant colours of the local wildlife.

If your Maldives diving checklist is fairly shark heavy, you’re in luck. There are no shortages of hotspots to scuba in. The clue is very much in the title at Hammerhead Shark Point, the South Ari Atoll is your whale shark venue and Fish Head is the congregation spot for a gang of grey reef sharks.

But there’s one place that tops the lot: Fuvahmulah, home to tiger sharks.

As if that wasn’t reward enough, it has been known to see silver tips, grey reef, oceanic white tips, hammerheads, threshers, whale sharks and black tip reef sharks all in one dive. And, the big pelagics that drop by (pilot whales and giant manta rays)? Well, it makes one hell of a spot for a swim.